THE LEGACY OF ST DEMETRIUS - Levente Lendvai's Autumn narrative chef's selection

October brings with it one of the Carpathian Basin’s oldest pastoral traditions, marking the close of the farming year and the arrival of a quieter season. On 26 October, St Demetrius’ Day, herdsmen and shepherds would bring their flocks down from the pastures to their winter quarters, settle accounts with their employers, and begin days of abundant feasting known as dömötörözés. Levente Lendvai’s October chef’s selection pays tribute to these shepherds and their cherished tradition.

The culinary journey begins with a fitting homage to the shepherds’ heritage: the bold, silky character of marbled sheep’s cheese is embraced by the earthy sweetness of roasted beetroot salad, while the delicate crunch and warm flavours of candied walnuts evoke autumn woodlands and tree-dotted pastures.

The next course draws on the patient, slow cooking of pastoral life. Tender, succulent slow-roasted oxtail is accompanied by creamy, rustic polenta, recalling the essence of traditional shepherds’ fare and livestock raised on open pasture. Pickled plums provide a lively counterpoint, their fruity acidity bringing freshness to the dish’s rich textures.

The main course is the menu’s crowning moment, elevating the shepherding traditions of St Demetrius’ Day to the heights of fine dining. Premium lamb loin, roasted to a perfect blush pink, is served with smoky charred broccoli and a silky, elegant mint velouté, whose verdant freshness beautifully balances the lamb’s full flavour. A finishing touch of pistachio adds texture and a subtle crunch.

To close this celebration of the harvest and pastoral life, a dessert arrives that is both nostalgic and refined. In Levente Lendvai’s composition, the rich, deep caramel notes of condensed milk meet the vibrant tartness and fragrance of quince, a fruit long associated with the autumn harvest. The warming, spiced notes of fine rum complete the harmony: a sweet and fitting tribute to the celebratory toasts of St Demetrius’ Day, 28 storeys above the illuminated city..

Starter

Sheep’s blue cheese with roasted beetroot salad and candied walnuts

Warm Starter

Slow-roasted oxtail with polenta and pickled plums

Main Course

Lamb loin with charred broccoli, mint velouté and pistachios

Dessert

Caramelised condensed milk with quince and rum